MELODY TIENYUN

Phoenix Ancient City

Fenghuang- the Chinese characters are a pairing of the male and female mythological birds, which represent good omen and longevity and are re-born from the flames after they die (you might’ve seen this from Harry Potter but their origin dates back thousands of years in Chinese history).  Though Jishou has a quaint Ancient city of its own, Fenghuang is the most famous of Hunan, so it is a popular tourist spot.  While it is walkable in a day, most people suggest staying the night (or at least until after sunset) to encounter the spectacular colors and light that illuminate the bridges along the river at night.  From Jishou North Bus Station, I bought a ticket for 25 yuan to Phoenix. Unlike the trains, the busses here are not on a schedule, rather these van like busses wait until they are at or near full capacity until they depart. Though I arrived by 10 AM, I sat and waited until about 10:40 until we finally departed. 

The distance between Jishou and Fenghuang is about 50km. The drive took over an hour, mainly because of the three random stops we took at a parking lot, gas station, and in front of the Qianzhou Ancient City before we even got onto the highway. Each time, a woman came on with a clipboard, checked something and then stepped off. Since I only wanted to take a day trip, and the busses had no posted last journey times, I had to ask the attendant, who told me that the last bus would be around 7 PM. 

The bus did not take me directly to the Ancient city, so when I got off and arrived in a parking lot with many motorcycle taxis and other parked tour buses, I was confused where to go. One of the drivers said, “Where do you want to go? Come with me, I’m from the old generation I won’t try to trick you!” I paid the 10 yuan and rode to one of the entrances (free to enter). 

Before I entered, I quickly found a hotel and used the toilets there–you just never know what the condition of the toilets will be, especially in ancient quarters! 

Click below for photos and videos of Fenghuang 

PHOENIX ANCIENT CITY

Though I ventured around on my own, I was later joined by my fellow colleague, Dorothy, and a local Chinese English teacher, Sean. Company is always nice! We found a coffeeshop right along the river and enjoyed some ginger tea and cappuccinos, and afterward got some gelato (don’t get your hopes up). 

Be sure to stay for sunset if you can, but make sure you get back to the bus stop before 7 because that’s when the last one leaves (or be prepared to pay for an overpriced taxi ride). Walking back, you can see vendors trying to sell some dinner items to you varying from pork, chicken, geese, to even a mountain rat? It was a LARGE rodent with a long tail in a cage. I’m certain they were not selling those for household pets. 

We were blessed that Sean’s friend had a car and could quickly drive us back. On the way, we stopped at his friend’s favorite shaokao (Chinese barbecue on sticks) place. Non-spicy is a must for me and my sensitive stomach, but you’ll see all kinds of meats and its parts grilled over coal and smothered with spices! It’s not the weekend in Hunan without some late night shakao.